Discover Kogin

What is Kogin?

Kogin embroidery is a type of Sashiko, originating in the Northern part of Japan, in Aomori prefecture and is a type of counted thread work. It is stitched on an even weave fabric from side to side typically using an uneven number of threads (one, three or five in length) to create geometric, symmetrical patterns, usually in squares in the form of diamond shapes.

There are around 45 patterns known as “Modoko”, which form the main set from which traditional Kogin is stitched.

However, there are many more designs available and, once you understand the construction of the designs, it is possible to invent and stitch your own pieces.

The name “Kogin” derives from the Japanese word “koginu”, “ko” being “small” and ginu meaning “wear”, the name of a long Japanese jacket, which was often decorated with this technique in panels.

Originally Kogin was only stitched with white thread on a black or dark blue fabric as these materials were all that was available to its makers.

These days a huge variety of colours are available in both threads and fabrics, which can be cotton or linen.

Ethos

Rob uses Auriful cotton floss for Kogin as it comes in over 250 colours and has a beautiful lustre which adds depth and vibrancy to his art.

Rob creates his designs in Microsoft Excel, where it is possible to efficiently pull a design concept together; and then stitches samples in different configurations before settling on a repeating design.

A major component of his design work is the juxtaposition of colour, with a key feature being to have no repeating colour in any row, column or diagonal in the pattern.

Kogin is a slow craft requiring total concentration with pieces typically taking upwards of 40 hours to sew.